Mérida

What Rivendell was to Frodo in The Lord of the Rings so Mérida was to us on El Camino: a beautiful city offering a comfortable and luxurious stop at the beginning of what would be a long and arduous journey. For us, the beautiful part of Mérida came in the form of its Roman ruins, pristinely preserved and still dominating the city’s life 2,000 years after their construction. Luxury came in the form of a one-star hotel that, through the eyes of these pilgrims anyway, looked like the Waldorf Astoria with its top-of-the-line amenities: a double bed, locking door with keys, and private bathroom. Our stay wasn’t long (just one and a half days) as we didn’t want to completely lose the pilgrim groove we had worked ourselves into with much effort over the previous week and a half, but it was a welcome and wonderful visit all the same. Below you can find some pictures from our time there as well as a poem by Kate.

FA5B4B6A-5C98-40D7-AC36-95BC3D57B4E6
An apt start to our time in the city: a walk across a Roman bridge

E0E17BE3-08EB-4669-AD51-420AF3E9F01C

F77D7738-A87B-4815-AA2E-A0D2264331A1
We were surprised and excited to see a hoopoe pecking around the ground near the bridge

12368433-98A3-4D89-9DA8-F8FF31C4B907

D011EF4F-693C-4595-8E1B-61BAA03FE418
Enjoying a coffee in the city’s main plaza
3629C340-9434-4AAB-8E42-2FBFBFC2697E
Roman aqueducts that ran for 6 kilometers to deliver water to the city

2B4CB7A2-404A-426B-8E87-1ADADCE09A2B5A3B8B8E-2FDE-47AE-975D-0F69A538ACCD95E0E737-5816-4670-9782-6AF53E10A92BEB462BF2-9C23-4EDA-9899-70342E5FB2355EA8DEE5-F33A-4C6C-B0D5-92065B9E1F3E

FB3338DA-CE05-48E4-900A-EBC60F6A34EF
Dimples in the bricks from where they would be clamped and lifted into place were still just as visible as the aqueduct itself
E478050B-A7A0-497F-A6E3-A8E6BC97CBB1
The Temple of Diana. If you look amidst the pillars you can make out another structure. Apparently in the Middle Ages, a rich baron decided that he wanted to build his house amidst the temple.

57956D99-F959-4286-9440-96F9088C240EBC411B04-0352-486E-8DF6-E3F886F98FC2E85022D9-72BD-4AFD-A216-397750ABEA21

5C1EB06C-9CB2-4352-BE31-521B39E66D94
A depiction of Jupiter
49451737-7268-4A6D-8D9C-2368ED9F1BA8
The city’s amphitheatre where gladiatorial events took place
696DB02F-1B1A-4CF2-80C7-F21AAAD8AE78
We were surprised to learn that they had musical accompaniment to the gladiator matches as well as a referee!

949A03FB-189E-44E5-88EA-F0D47D1BA6EE

94CAC18B-591E-4171-8FFB-D8BF3AB0F9B0
While there were no signs indicating this for sure, we imagined this was where gladiators entered the arena.

1F8E1655-C9B1-44F7-8768-CF7A71FCD284

C706D3D9-9D82-421F-829E-420F3B4645D8
Neighboring the amphitheatre was the theatre, where less gruesome forms of entertainment played out.

9BAB8C64-8F6D-47C6-9003-E7FEF7008BD4

7AC5158E-FEE8-443C-BED0-EEF4941C92C0
Looking at the theatre from one of the hallways that emerged into the stands

9D7BD7C4-91CC-4776-9A41-E142BD49EB12D59AA7AB-A8D0-4D9A-94D3-3E8C91DE364C2E6D7874-F998-4992-86B6-6C66D1048CCE0139304A-FD35-4542-A46F-0E1D92D0113B063B0CFE-7112-47A7-9D4F-564C48A3633C

C8F5A7C9-9A70-44C7-B1EA-EA7A5DFC8563
Enjoying a drink back at the Temple of Diana to cap off the day
DF07C5E9-5552-4361-99FF-591156267983
A depiction of Medusa, the myth of whom inspired Kate´s poem below.

Epithet to Medusa

Are you aware
of the irony
of your preservation
in stone?
Sinuous snakes—
your only companions—
petrified
in a writhing frenzy.
Your staring eyes—
more damaged than before—
gaze unfocused,
no Iris,
no Pupil—
just you
and your memories
before your life
was as tangled
as your serpentine tresses.

La Vía de la Plata – A Week in Photos

“Now shall I walk or shall I ride?
‘Ride,’ Pleasure said;
‘Walk,’ Joy replied.”
W.H. Davies

One week into El Camino, there have certainly been some unpleasurable moments, but the overwhelming feeling of the last week and nearly 100 miles has been one of joy. Below you can find some pictures highlighting our first seven days on the road.

5FB60AF7-5251-441D-BF3B-819403E9011E
Outside the cathedral in Sevilla, our starting point for La Via de la Plata
4975BE09-CA5F-4FD4-8A04-D6BF6427D180
Spotting our first of what would be many yellow arrows pointing us towards Santiago de Compostela.
C0C8DECB-2827-492E-B953-6101ED938B54
Having a picnic lunch outside of Italica, an ancient Roman ruins site that has recently gained fame for being used as a shooting location for Game of Thrones.

93BCC3A3-B8EC-436F-AFCD-B725D8364276ACC51E13-FE06-4665-AA8A-639F37B6CBC2

F16889BD-EA1F-40BE-8E2C-EE9F958AE8F3
An olive orchard
D0E26D45-6702-4B24-B35A-DDA41D6D58EF
An old watchtower sitting over the crest of a meadowed hill

84145722-4B81-4FAF-B860-53A2DACDC119

2517BC4C-E699-4957-BB8B-B124F23A9F14
For most of the walk, we’ve enjoyed as our companion an unending supply of beautiful natural scenery
71479677-EA21-479B-BE6A-729D4ECAF29A
The symbol of El Camino. All of the lines in the shell represent the different routes one can take to arrive at the same destination: Santiago de Compostela.
1055BDE8-4250-49F2-9FE4-4DA906967E0C
The view from our albergue over Castilblanco de los Arroyos, one of the villages we stopped in
BBA07F1A-3AFE-418C-BF3F-72FD60049C3D
Many of our days have begun at a village cafe eating tostada con tomate and sipping on a mug of tea. This morning came before our first trying day on El Camino, an 18-mile trek over hilly terrain to Almadén de la Plata.

29C199B9-91EA-4B46-80F5-ACEE6B459AACE8175420-144E-4C87-961B-39C08B372C63

029B69B1-80C7-4A90-AF8F-FFA0A16025B8
Checking out an old, ruined house along the way.
73F35433-AD83-45E8-8AAC-7563A4583899
A steep, seemingly endless hill is not what you want to see at the end of an 18-mile day, but we conquered it nonetheless.
979A08F6-91B7-4A31-AB6B-8EDEDDFEAF08
A site for sore feet.

44200E55-7912-4AA6-B771-F9085A92D7D08FDE1404-EA00-4FF5-AB8B-FB7E8406A0E1

7DDF2BEB-BCD7-484D-BAFB-1A2C227BADCC
Golden fields at dawn have been a consistent part of our walk. We’re hoping it stays that way!
8442D493-394F-48B5-9C9E-3BEB8F4C1B1A
Some friendly farm dogs we came across

951777E1-EE35-425D-8C38-D08E2BB4C74E

E8382924-EE96-4490-8EA3-A205C1B00E6E
Exploring the castle in Real de la Jara

24C70465-87D3-4B4F-84AA-1268961CD8110F001243-A577-405D-B416-0DC59A2268E8CB5FDF06-2E0D-4ECC-9952-660E125DA81FE3F110A6-D5DA-44A0-8030-C4046245A233B5E9A53C-3A22-4CBF-918C-CDE08717F6BF

8042B818-91B9-4681-9AE4-818ACB7EC416
A much deserved beer along the way
D7C6E28F-A8E0-44EB-836D-1F166562BDE1
Occasionally the scenery is not the greatest…
73D7B087-A148-40F5-987F-D0D3A9F09E4C
…but it can change quickly.

7B33B50C-EF75-4121-821A-372EB9E36AF9

FC8F0506-1DDC-4C2E-8FC5-D4F86D0E9029
We began seeing a bunch of these small flowers that grew out of the ground individually without a stem or leaves.

D086D954-A188-4EFC-8CF1-C504C4C93029A1AFFAFE-5B4A-4108-AE47-49D0820AABA51615BCAA-D03A-4783-B00A-0171FB156A90

1756FFB2-7E05-42AA-AB71-96087EBF4D29
Our seventh day took us past fields of grape trees
1E498F3A-96D8-494C-88DE-B6E1CCEB5EBA
Some of them were being harvested
2752BB00-F10B-495B-8E01-95E09F142425
Exploring the town of Zafra

78C80D28-8BB9-47F9-9354-E13F3202ABE6