Breakfast on El Camino

What and where you eat first thing in the morning can set the tone for the rest of the day, a fact that becomes especially important when that day consists of walking around 15 miles, hand washing clothes and sleeping in an unfamiliar bed; among other things far from the realm of tasks associated with comfort and relaxation. While walking El Camino, we’ve eaten a range of healthy, in-between, and poor breakfasts, as well as experienced café culture, eating in various albergues, and having breakfast on the road. What you will find here are vegan breakfast ideas for both cafés and on your own (and cost comparisons of the two), a few cafés we particularly enjoyed, as well as a breakfast language key.

It is entirely up to you (and your bank account!) if you want to begin your morning at a café or on your own at an albergue. In our experience, an average breakfast bill for the two of us at a café was 5.45€, while an average breakfast assembled on our own was 1.90€. 

Cafés

It is difficult to find vegan options on any Spanish menu, but you will always have at least one option at breakfast: tostada con tomate (toast with tomato). This is a traditional breakfast dish and each café has its own flair…or lack there of (read: toasted slice of white bread paired with a small packet of glorified ketchup). In most cases though, it is a toasted baguette topped with grated tomato, olive oil and salt. And, while it is typical to have a cup of coffee alongside the tostada, it is quite uncommon for cafés to have non-dairy milk unless it is in a bigger city (Granada, Mérida, Cáceres, Salamanca), and even then it can be difficult to find. So, to avoid having a confused and, at times, bothered “no” muttered back to you after asking for soy milk, it’s probably best to order tea instead.

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Tostada con tomate with a rare (and thoroughly enjoyed) soy milk latte

Another important thing to keep in mind when choosing to have breakfast at a cafe is what time it opens. Spain is notorious for mealtimes that don’t mesh with those that the rest of the world obeys and if you are expecting a place that serves breakfast to be open at the time you are leaving town, you could be starting the day on an empty stomach. In Mérida, we waited around outside until 9:30 for a café to open (the first one of the nearly dozen that were in the plaza) and we were the only customers until 10:00!

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Not the breakfast atmosphere we had hoped for

On Your Own

Most villages you stay in will have a supermarket or at least a small store, which makes doing breakfast on your own always an option. A favorite breakfast of ours was muesli and soy milk paired with a piece of fruit. We would have a bowl for dessert after supper and then one for breakfast again the next day. If we had any leftover milk, we would leave it in the fridge with a note for the next day’s pilgrims to enjoy. The leftover muesli, which was always of the chocolate variety, would of course never be left behind, rather taken with us as a snack on the road. Occasionally, you will come across basic stores that don’t carry novelties like muesli and soy milk. In cases like this, no matter how scarce the store’s selection is, bread and fruit will always be an option. 

If you’re craving a hot breakfast, having leftovers from the night before is always a good alternative. This always worked well for potato dishes but there were also many times when we would have to get creative as in when we used leftover pasta, reheated it in olive oil, and added a couple of apples we had on hand as well as a garnish of cinnamon. With a mug of chai tea, it was actually quite delicious! Our recommendation for ensuring as tasty of a breakfast as possible is to buy a box of tea and a plastic container of cinnamon; both are lightweight, easy to pack, and add a lot to whatever breakfast you are having!

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Our first and most likely last attempt at cinnamon apple pasta

Recommended Cafés

  • Mérida: Malabar (in Plaza España, opens at 9:30)
    • non-dairy milk options for coffee
    • their tomato and avocado toast is great
  • Cáceres: Casa de Golosos (Calle Pario la Abuela, near Plaza Mayor, opens at 9:00)
    • non-dairy milk and large mugs of coffee (a luxury in Spain!
    • they have different oils for tostada con tomate (garlic, rosemary, orange, spicy pepper)
  • Salamanca: Atelier Clandestino (Calle Placentinos, No. 2, hours are from 9 to 4)
    • vegan snacks and desserts ranging from 3 – 6 Euros
    • non-dairy milk for coffee
    • the owners are a married couple who have walked El Camino before and are very nice
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Menu at Malabar in Mérida
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Avocado toast at Malabar
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The window and logo of the vegan-friendly breakfast spot in Cáceres
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Plenty of vegan options at Atelier Clandestino

 Breakfast Language Key

  • breakfast: desayuno (des-a-YU-noh )
  • tea: té (TEH)
  • coffee: café (cah-FEH)
  • (orange) juice: zumo (de naranja) (THU-mo [deh na-RAN-ha])
  • soy milk: leche de soja (LEH-cheh deh SO-ha)
  • tomato toast: tostada con tomate (tos-TAH-dah cohn to-MAH-teh)
  • lard: manteca de cerdo (mahn-TEH-cah deh THEHR-doh)—lard is a common ingredient in pastries
  • Do you have (soy milk)?: ¿Usted tiene (leche de soja)? (OO-sted tee-EH-ne…)
  • I want (coffee with soy milk): Quiero (café con leche de soja). (kee-EH-roh…)
  • What time does the café open?: ¿A que hora abre este café? (Ah keh OH-ra AH-breh EHS-teh…)
  • yes: sí (SEE)
  • no: no (NOH)

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